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Iced Tea and Summertime

In the good old summertime of 1904 at the St. Louis World Trade Fair and very cool beverage was born, ICED TEA. If you have ever been in St. Louis in the summer, where temperatures soar with steamy humidity, you can understand why Englishman Richard Blechynden could not sell his hot teas. The Fair goers kept passing him by. Mr. Blechynden took a bold step and poured his black teas over glasses filled with ice. Word began to get around and soon customers lined up to buy this perfect cooling beverage. So began the American love affair with Iced Tea.

Today more than 80 percent of all tea consumed in the U.S. is served over ice. According to a survey in 1992 we down between 1.6 and 1.8 billion glasses of iced tea per year here.

There are many options and variations of iced tea.
Here is a little step by step:

- choose your favorite tea (NOTE: 100% China Black makes an excellent iced brew) And if you are using a tea that is formulated as a hot tea use double the amount

Water – brewed tea is 99% water *make sure to us fresh filtered water
Brew (black tea) at 205 F/96C with Steeping time of 5 minutes
Remove leaves at the end of steeping process

Don’t forget the garnish; a juicy slice of orange adds an excellent twist to that fresh taste. Of course lemons, limes, and various mint flavors are a fun addition to this fresh brewed beverage.

Now let’s head out to the porch and enjoy a cold refreshing ICED TEA!

Always Kickin’
Cathy Hoormann
Kickin' Coffee & Tea
www.Kickincoffeeandtea.com


Elaine Parker Retires From Active Duty – Our Gratitude for All your Service!

You will notice on the first page of the newsletter, where all the pictures of the Officers and Chairs are, there is a blank place for Parliamentarian, where Elaine Parker’s picture used to sit. Elaine gave our Chapter President Gary Rawson, a very kind letter of resignation/retirement at the Board meeting earlier this month.

Its not that Elaine is tired of the job, or that she no longer wants to be part of our Chapter, rather it is just that Elaine see herself with less time to give. Frank, Elaine’s fine spouse, no longer has teaching duties at Vanderbilt, and he and Elaine plan quite a bit of travel and fun.

Honestly, they won’t be in town that much – so when they are here, Elaine plans on coming to the Chapter meetings and enjoying her membership in that way.

For the Chapter’s part, her participation and activities will be sorely missed. We humbly thank Elaine Parker for the years of hard work and dedication, and we hope to see her often.

 

 

How Much Do Chefs Really Make?
Celebrities Aside, The Short Answer Is: Less Than You Might Think.

By Judith Weinraub
Washington Post Staff Writer
Wednesday, April 19, 2006

When 20-year-old Jacques Van Staden left his native South Africa for Washington in 1990 to become a chef, he had to sell his car to pay the airfare. Sixteen years later, he is making $140,000 plus a percentage of the profits of a restaurant group and is executive chef at its award-winning Alize restaurant in Las Vegas.

His success is a result of talent and hard work -- and his move to Nevada didn't hurt, either.

Higher salaries, more opportunities, and in some cases union benefits are luring top chefs to the casinos of Las Vegas and Atlantic City. Average salaries there -- $85,000 a year for a chef and $14 an hour for line cooks, the people who make the food that gets sent out to diners -- are the highest in the country, according to a recent salary survey by StarChefs.com.

Even the prestige of the White House pastry kitchen wasn't enough to keep Thaddeus Dubois in Washington. Although Dubois said money wasn't the only reason, he recently left 1600 Pennsylvania Avenue and a $120,000 salary to return to his former employer and the prospect of working at a luxury hotel and casino being built in Las Vegas.

Although Washington restaurants are among some of the finest and priciest in the nation, chefs' salaries here are actually below national norms. The average salary for an executive chef here is $71,666, according to a recent salary survey by StarChefs.com. The national average is $75,596, according to estimates by the online industry magazine.

Locally, the range for line cooks is somewhere between $12 to $15 an hour, chefs and restaurateurs say. "I have some cooks who have to work two jobs," says Ann Cashion, the chef and co-owner of Cashion's Eat Place in Adams Morgan and Johnnie's Half Shell on P Street. "It's very common."

When Van Staden started out, he wasn't even making that much. He manned the overnight guard station at the South African Embassy, helped out in the kitchen and mowed suburban lawns to afford tuition to culinary school. Over time he became chef at several posh Washington restaurants and hotels. But he wanted his own restaurant, and eventually became the chef and co-owner of Cafe Ole, a thriving but modest mezze place on Wisconsin Avenue NW. He paid himself $30,000 a year.

Almost overnight, he tripled that salary in 2000 when he became executive chef at the Aladdin Casino and Resort in Las Vegas. Since then, his stature has continued to rise -- and with it, his income.

Washington's $71,666 average isn't enough to keep sought-after chefs where they are or to lure hot young chefs either, local restaurateurs say. "It takes more than that to get good talent," says Ashok Bajaj, who runs a small empire of restaurants in Washington.

"There are certainly chefs in this area in the six-figure range," says Dan Mesches, president of the Star Restaurant Group. The group, with Guest Services Inc., recently hired Bryan Moscatello, one of Food & Wine Magazine's 2003 Best New Chefs in America, to be executive chef at the new Indigo Landing restaurant on Daingerfield Island.

Even so, owners say, salaries are limited by the revenue of a restaurant -- about 3.2 percent profit on checks that exceed $25, according to the National Restaurant Association.

Hotel restaurants tend to have more financial leeway: "We pay whatever it takes," says Michel Morauw, general manager of the Park Hyatt Washington. The Park Hyatt has kept its top chef, Brian McBride, on the payroll since closing its Melrose restaurant last July. It also paid all of McBride's expenses while he conducted research in Europe and Asia for the Park Hyatt's new restaurant, Blue Duck Tavern, which is scheduled to open May 22.

But even with its better pay, many cooks and chefs don't like the corporate world. They prefer the closer relationships they have with the food and the customers in more traditional restaurant settings.

- MORE COOKS THAN CHEFS

Not everybody in a restaurant kitchen is entitled to be called "chef." Most people there are cooks who are paid by the hour: the ones just starting out; the ones with experience and more skills; and those in charge of specific areas (or stations) of the kitchen. In this area, line cooks make $12 to $15 in freestanding restaurants, and up to $18.50 in some hotels.

Next are the sous-chefs -- a management level just under the chefs de cuisine (the creative boss) and the executive chef (the boss's boss). Sous-chefs are paid an annual salary. What sous-chefs and chefs de cuisine earn varies, depending on the level of responsibility and the size and popularity of the restaurant.

Full-time pastry chefs are sometimes paid on this basis as well -- and those who do average $50,581 nationally, according to the StarChefs.Com survey. Pastry chefs in Las Vegas make about $70,000 -- the highest in the country.

- PAY LEVELS

Executive chefs' salaries vary tremendously and are closely held. The StarChef survey of 2,000 chefs found that 12 percent of all executive chefs were paid more than $100,000 last year.

After many years in the business, Susan McCreight Lindeborg was making $60,000 as executive chef at Majestic Cafe in Old Town Alexandria when it opened in May 2001 (she also had a small percentage of the partnership). Like other chef-owners, Jeff Tunks, the corporate chef of Passion Food Restaurants, and his two partners are paid a management fee based on the financial health of the restaurants. At Bob Kinkead's restaurants (Kinkead's in downtown D.C. and Colvin Run Tavern in Vienna), his chefs de cuisine are paid $60,000 to $70,000.

But most cooks and chefs say the pay is hardly commensurate with their skill levels, the hours on their feet and the cost of living -- let alone the amount of stress. The help-wanted board at the professional culinary school, L'Academie de Cuisine in Gaithersburg, last month listed a country club in Baltimore that was looking for an experienced executive sous-chef. The salary: $60,000. An inn in Talbot County was looking for a recent graduate to work side by side with the chef for $30,000.

- PROFIT LEVELS

Most restaurants have small profit margins: in 2004-05, table-service restaurants where the average check per person is $15 to $24.99 made 4 cents on the dollar, and the margin was less for more expensive restaurants, according to the National Restaurant Association. "It costs more money to produce higher-end food," explains Tracy O'Grady, chef and co-owner of Willow in Arlington.

A chef's star power is a factor. Jose Andres (Jaleo, Zaytinya, Oyamel, Cafe Atlantico) is an officer in his company, Proximo Restaurants. He's also its executive chef, its public face and its chief creative officer -- and he has ownership in the business. In addition, he has his own program on Spanish national television. "We're in the process of renegotiating" his compensation, says Rob Wilder, Proximo's chief executive.

- THE LURE OF LAS VEGAS

Superstar chefs who have flocked to Las Vegas get much more, chefs say. "Las Vegas numbers are way above the ones here," says Fabio Trabocchi, executive chef at Maestro in the Ritz-Carlton at Tysons Corner.

As for the executive chefs, "I think it would be safe for me to say that every chef out there is making more than any chef in this city -- probably several times more," says Kinkead, who was contacted about running one of the restaurants in the Borgata Hotel Casino and Spa in Atlantic City when the property was being developed. "Those restaurants essentially have a captive audience. . . . Butts in the seats are what anybody in the restaurant business really cares about."

- LIFESTYLE BENEFITS

Some cooks and chefs get benefits such as 401(k) retirement savings plans. But the really big issue is health care insurance. More established places do offer it -- in some cases to salaried employees and in others to their hourly workers as well. "Restaurants that are under 100 seats have a hard time coming up with the money," says Cashion, whose employees get health care coverage after one year. "It has nothing to do with whether they'd like to or not."

What's particularly valued are lifestyle benefits, such as two days off a week. Another prized benefit is having a Friday or Saturday night off. Passion Food Hospitality provides a stipend to encourage each member of its culinary management team to sample food in other restaurants and to buy cookbooks or food magazines.

- THE VALUE OF CULINARY SCHOOL

There is little evidence that a culinary degree immediately pays off in higher salaries or better benefits, but some restaurateurs see a diploma as a sign of seriousness about the profession, Bajaj says.

Culinary schools do what they can to present a realistic view of the industry. "I don't want anyone thinking they'll make Emeril Lagasse money on the way in," says Barbara Cullen, director of admissions of L'Academie de Cuisine. Most accredited culinary schools require an externship in a restaurant kitchen, which often leads to an entry-level job upon graduation.

- JOB SATISFACTION

As the number of restaurants in downtown Washington dramatically increased in the past few years, wages have crept up for cooks. One way of measuring that, says Lynn Breaux, president of the Restaurant Association of Metropolitan Washington, is the increase in D.C. restaurant sales tax: from about $179 million in 2000 to $233 million in 2005. The growing number of restaurants has led to greater demand for cooks and chefs, and that, in turn, has boosted wages. "In the last couple of years, that's gone up considerably for a competent line cook," says Kinkead. "Five years ago they might have been paid $10 an hour. Now it's $12 to $15."

Salaries have never been the big attraction for chefs. People who are going to stay in the industry for the long term are not doing it for the money, says Cashion. What keeps you at it, she says, is loving to do it and the satisfaction you get from preparing food for other people's enjoyment and your own.

"I feel like I always have had a really high degree of satisfaction, day in and day out," Cashion adds. "We all know people who don't feel that way about their jobs."

 

The “Pick Tennessee Products” folks are on a mission, and to the Chefs, Food, and Hospitality Industry of Middle Tennessee, that is a very good thing. Aside from a number of our members having Tennessee products that they manufacture and market, efforts to promote our local products are having a positive effect on the amount of commerce and tourism attracted to our local region. Efforts like this can’t help but raise the respective water for everyone in our own back yard pond.

Saturday. May 20, Nashville Superspeedway was host to “A Toast to Tennessee Wine Festival”, a spring festival that brought together over 100 wines, Jazz Music and Artisans. Our own Anna Lia Hicks was out at the festival with her delicious Wine Pretzels and Biscotti products. There were over 4000 attendees strolling the Speedway and enjoying the Spring Festival.

As Chefs in Middle Tennessee, we need to be aware that our state boasts over 25 local wineries, that are trying to build trade, reputation and tourism. It would be a win-win circumstance if some of us local Chefs started featuring Tennessee wines in our culinary offerings. There is a unique set of circumstances coming together in our region, and those who are in a position to grab onto opportunity may prosper from it.

Here is why I say such a thing, sometimes age gives you perspective, and I have the benefit of some age right now. 35 years ago, I was beginning my career in the restaurant industry. I was a waiter, and naturally had to learn about wines if I wanted to raise my check average. I learned about French wines and how to sell them. I learned the big varietals and Chateaus, plus labels like Cruze, Jadot and B&G selections. Aside from the monster wineries like Christian Bros. Rossi and Paul Masson, there were a few new small boutique starter vineyards from California, like Mondavi, BV, Charles Krug. I went to Napa and Sonoma, and visited these small wineries. They were primitive, but very exciting with a great spirit. 35 years later, Napa and Sonoma vineyards are world class showcases for American wines with their products bringing huge prices on the world market.

The wineries here in Tennessee are very reminiscent of California wine scene 30-40 years ago. There is no place but up for these products. So all you Chefs and Hospitality Industry folks might think of how this wave can be exploited.

Local Restaurants Create Nashville Originals to Preserve Identity

A number of local restaurants have created an association of independent restaurant in Nashville. To quote from their literature:

“The Nashville Originals is a dedicated band of local restauranteurs; dedicated to the challenge of sustaining the independent restaurant as a feature and fixture of local culture. Together we will increase the visibility and viability of locally-owned restaurants, enabling them to continue to exercise individuality, creativity and style.

The dining choices of Nashvillians help define the city. Our home grown restaurants reflect who we are and pave the way for future development of our neighborhoods. Our members not only support each other but also actively support local initiatives, charities, and events.

We think globally, we plan nationally and we dine locally. Gather, eat, and enjoy life in the restaurants that are Nashville Originals.”

Many of Nashville’s keystone restaurants and restauranteurs belong and are active within the Nashville Originals. Many are members and former members of our Middle Tennessee Chefs Association. Randy Rayburn, Anita Hartel, Deb Paquette, Willie Thomas. Many are friends of the Chefs Association; Rick Balsam, Gep Nelson, Corey Griffith, Tom Loventhal, Jay Pennington. and many we hope will be future associates of the Middle Tennessee Chapter.

As Chefs in the Middle Tennessee Area, it is incumbent upon us to support movements like this one…. So eat out often!

Lemon Lighting

From Sonia El-Nawal, Pastry Chef, Theo - New York City
Adapted by StarChefs

Yield: 6 servings

Lemon Curd:

1 cup lemon juice
1 cup sugar
16 egg yolks
1 1/4 unsalted butter, cold and cubed
Zest of one lemon
In a pot, mix lemon juice, sugar, yolks, and zest and cook until thick. Keep whisking, but not incorporating too much air. When it has thickened, take off fire and whisk in butter, transfer to a clean pot and refrigerate.

Short Bread:

2 cups all-purpose flour.
3/4 cup sugar.
Pinch of salt.
1 pound unsweetened butter, soft.
Mix the flour, sugar, and salt in a bowl by hand. Work in the butter until the whole mix is crumbly, lay out in a sheet tray, bake on 325† until golden brown. Set aside to cool until assembly.

Italian Meringue:

7 ounces sugar
1 3/4 ounces water
3 ounces egg whites
Mix sugar and water in pot and boil. In a kitchen aid bowl, whip the egg whites until they form a soft peak. Pour in the syrup quickly; let this beat until whites have cooled.


For assembly, whip a 1/2 cup of heavy cream, fold it into the curd. In a cup or Ramekin, layer shortbread first, then curd, then Lemon sections, then more curd. Ending with Italian Meringue, spoon it in and flatten the top with a spatula. Now burn the top with a blow torch. You can refrigerate this up to 3 hours before eating.