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Natalie MacLean - At the World Food Media Awards in Australia, Natalie was named the World's Best Drink Writer find more wine tips and articles at www.nataliemaclean.com
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Finding Your Solemate
In the movie From Russia with Love, James Bond and a man posing as a secret agent both order grilled sole while dining together. Bond orders a blanc de blancs champagne, the impostor asks for a chianti—the "red kind." After the meal, the bad guy knocks 007 unconscious, and later, when Bond recovers he observes bitterly, "Red wine with fish. Well, that should have told me something." The villan responds, "You may know the right wines, but you're the one on your knees."
The same can be said about matching wine with all types of seafood: the rules help, but they should never replace your intuition—or get in the way of pleasure. Wine is full of traditions: the right serving temperatures, decanting methods, stemware selection, tasting procedures and food matches. Many of these rules are based on common sense, but some have become dated with changes in the way we think about and prepare food.
Just ten years ago, drinking red wine with fish was as taboo as putting salt on your food in a five-star restaurant. The prescribed wine was white and French. But today, fine dining is less formal, more focused simply on a great taste experience. Home cooking has become more experimental, with new flavour combinations, influenced by our sampling of other cultures' cuisines when we travel.
Wine, too, has changed, with new winemaking methods, grapes and blends. "Flying winemakers" who oversee vineyards around the world have helped to cross-pollinate these changes. The result is that many white wines are no longer the ideal piscatorial pairing because they're so hefty in their alcohol and flavour that they overpower many seafood dishes. But what we've lost in tradition, we've made up for in novelty and diversity. With this in mind, here are some tips on matching wine and seafood today:
Light white wine goes swimmingly with delicate flaky whitefish such as cod, pollock, sole, plaice or trout. Loire Valley muscadets and Mosel and Alsace rieslings offer a touch of sweetness and crisp acidity that will complement, but not overwhelm, the subtle taste of these fish. Acidity in wine acts much like the acidity in a lemon you might squeeze on a fish dish-it enhances the flavours and cleanses the palate of any oiliness, preparing you to appreciate the next bite all the more. For this reason, these wines are also ideal for fish prepared in cream sauces.
Often, wine choices aren't based so much on the particular fish as the sauce that accompanies it. In fact, most cultures drink red wine with fish because of the preparation. For example, grilled halibut with a fruit salsa that's both sweet and peppery will make an acidic wine taste too tart. But a white wine with a little sweetness will pair nicely. Blackened, grilled and seared fish need red wine, especially when they are prepared using spicy and strong seasonings from the Caribbean, Mediterranean and Asia. A spicy zinfandel goes exceptionally well with these strong flavours. Wine is also often an ingredient in fish dishes—and traditionally the same table wine is served as the wine that was used to prepare the dish-like with like. |
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Salmon used to be poached in a white-wine boullion and served with a dill cream sauce. But today it's more often mesquite-grilled or prepared with teriyaki flavoring. Salmon is already a strongly-flavored fish and when you prepare it with additional bold flavors, the dish demands red wine. Red wine high in tannin is often a poor match because when it interacts with the omega-3 fatty acids in fish, the wine tastes metallic.
Therefore, red wines with just a touch of tannin (the same compound in tea that makes your mouth feel furry) are excellent choices. Pinot noir is often the most popular among these wines. But not all pinot noirs are the same—those from the hot New World wine regions can be as full-bodied as cabernets. I prefer pinots from the Burgundy or cool climates such as Oregon, the Carneros region in California, Finger Lakes in New York and Niagara in Canada. These wines are more refined, balanced and suit fish well. Chilling these reds will help. |
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For meatier fish such as sea bass, turbot or halibut, try light reds such as gamay (the grape for beaujolais nouveau), pinot noir or richer whites such as chardonnay, viognier or semillon.
The classic match for oysters is a crisp unoaked chablis, a minerally, acidic chardonnay from northern Burgundy, or champagne, which offers palate-cleansing acidity and effervescence. But don't stop there—oysters also pair well with Loire Valley muscadet, Portuguese vinho verde and cool-climate New World sauvignon blancs such as those from New Zealand. |
These wines are often called "green" because of their tartness—both from high acidity and from the herbal flavors and aromas. Yet they're low in alcohol, so they match the seafood's light texture. This is why many white wines from hot regions in the New World, such as California, Australia and Chile, are too heavy for seafood. Their high alcohol also accentuates the seafood's saltiness. Look for whites that are less than 12% in alcohol by volume.
Other shellfish such as shrimp, lobster, clams and mussels also go well with wines that complement oysters. Also try Sancerre, dry chenin blanc from the Loire Valley, pinot gris from Oregon, pinot grigio from Italy or pinot blanc from Alsace or the United States.
James Bond would have a tough time today ferreting out the bad guys based on an unusual wine and fish match. But he would be reassured that some things don't change: the best match for herring is still vodka, not shaken or stirred.
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Keeping Food Safe During an Emergency
From the United States Department of Agriculture
Did you know that a flood, fire, national disaster, or the loss of power from high winds, snow, or ice could jeopardize the safety of your food? Knowing how to determine if food is safe and how to keep food safe will help minimize the potential loss of food and reduce the risk of foodborne illness. This fact sheet will help you make the right decisions for keeping your family safe during an emergency.
ABCD’s of Keeping Food Safe in an Emergency
Always keep meat, poultry, fish, and eggs refrigerated at or below 40 ºF and frozen food at or below 0 ºF. This may be difficult when the power is out.
Keep the refrigerator and freezer doors closed as much as possible to maintain the cold temperature. The refrigerator will keep food safely cold for about 4 hours if it is unopened. A full freezer will hold the temperature for approximately 48 hours (24 hours if it is half full) if the door remains closed. Obtain dry or block ice to keep your refrigerator as cold as possible if the power is going to be out for a prolonged period of time. Fifty pounds of dry ice should hold an 18-cubic foot full freezer for 2 days. Plan ahead and know where dry ice and block ice can be purchased.
Be prepared for an emergency by having items on hand that don’t require refrigeration and can be eaten cold or heated on the outdoor grill. Shelf-stable food, boxed or canned milk, water, and canned goods should be part of a planned emergency food supply. Make sure you have ready-to-use baby formula for infants and pet food. Remember to use these items and replace them from time to time. Be sure to keep a hand-held can opener for an emergency.
Consider what you can do ahead of time to store your food safely in an emergency. If you live in a location that could be affected by a flood, plan your food storage on shelves that will be safely out of the way of contaminated water. Coolers are a great help for keeping food cold if the power will be out for more than 4 hours—have a couple on hand along with frozen gel packs. When your freezer is not full, keep items close together—this helps the food stay cold longer.
Digital, dial, or instant-read food thermometers and appliance thermometers will help you know if the food is at safe temperatures. Keep appliance thermometers in the refrigerator and freezer at all times. When the power is out, an appliance thermometer will always indicate the temperature in the refrigerator and freezer no matter how long the power has been out. The refrigerator temperature should be 40 ºF or below; the freezer, 0 ºF or lower. If you’re not sure a particular food is cold enough, take its temperature with a food thermometer.
Frequently Asked
Questions:
| Q. |
Flood waters
covered our food stored on shelves and in
cabinets. What can I keep and what should I
throw out? How should I clean my dishes and pots
and pans? |
| A. |
Discard all food that came
in contact with flood waters including
canned goods. It is impossible to know if
containers were damaged and the seal compromised.
Discard wooden cutting boards, plastic utensils,
baby bottle nipples, and pacifiers. There is no
way to safely clean them if they have come in
contact with contaminated flood waters. Thoroughly
wash metal pans, ceramic dishes, and utensils with
hot soapy water and sanitize by boiling them in
clean water or by immersing them for 15 minutes in
a solution of 1 teaspoon of chlorine bleach per
quart of water. |
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| Q. |
My home was
flooded and I am worried about the safety of the
drinking water. What should I do?
|
| A. |
Drink only approved or
chlorinated water. Consider all water from wells,
cisterns, and other delivery systems in the
disaster area unsafe until tested. Purchase
bottled water, if necessary, until you are certain
that your water supply is safe. Keep a 3-day
supply of water or a minimum of 3 gallons of water
per person. |
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| Q. |
We had a fire in
our home and I am worried about what food I can
keep and what to throw away. |
| A. |
Discard food that has been
near a fire. Food exposed to fire can be damaged
by the heat of the fire, smoke fumes, and
chemicals used to fight the fire . Food in cans or
jars may appear to be okay, but the heat from a
fire can activate food spoilage bacteria. If the
heat is extreme, the cans or jars themselves can
split or rupture, rendering the food
unsafe.
One of the most dangerous elements
of a fire is sometimes not the fire itself, but
toxic fumes released from burning materials.
Discard any raw food or food in permeable
packaging—cardboard, plastic wrap, screw-topped
jars, bottles, etc.—stored outside the
refrigerator. Food stored in refrigerators or
freezers can also become contaminated by fumes.
The refrigerator seal isn't airtight and fumes can
get inside. Chemicals used to fight the fire
contain toxic materials and can contaminate food
and cookware. Food that is exposed to chemicals
should be thrown away—the chemicals cannot be
washed off the food. This includes food stored at
room temperature, such as fruits and vegetables,
as well as food stored in permeable containers
like cardboard and screw-topped jars and bottles.
Cookware exposed to fire-fighting chemicals can be
decontaminated by washing in soap and hot water.
Then submerge for 15 minutes in a solution of 1
teaspoon chlorine bleach per quart of water.
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| Q. |
A snowstorm
knocked down the power lines, can I put the food
from the refrigerator and freezer out in the
snow? |
| A. |
No, frozen food can thaw
if it is exposed to the sun's rays even when the
temperature is very cold. Refrigerated food may
become too warm and foodborne bacteria could grow.
The outside temperature could vary hour by hour
and the temperature outside will not protect
refrigerated and frozen food. Additionally,
perishable items could be exposed to unsanitary
conditions or to animals. Animals may harbor
bacteria or disease; never consume food that has
come in contact with an animal. Rather than
putting the food outside, consider taking
advantage of the cold temperatures by making ice.
Fill buckets, empty milk cartons or cans with
water and leave them outside to freeze. Then put
the homemade ice in your refrigerator, freezer, or
coolers. |
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| Q. |
Some of my food in
the freezer started to thaw or had thawed when the
power came back on. Is the food safe? How long
will the food in the refrigerator be safe with the
power off? |
| A. |
Never taste food
to determine its safety! You will have to
evaluate each item separately. If an appliance
thermometer was kept in the freezer, read the
temperature when the power comes back on. If the
appliance thermometer stored in the freezer reads
40 °F or below, the food is safe and may be
refrozen. If a thermometer has not been kept in
the freezer, check each package of food to
determine the safety. Remember you can’t rely on
appearance or odor. If the food still contains ice
crystals or is 40 °F or below, it is safe to
refreeze . Refrigerated food should be safe as
long as power is out no more than 4 hours. Keep
the door closed as much as possible. Discard any
perishable food (such as meat, poultry, fish,
eggs, and leftovers) that have been above 40 °F
for 2 hours. |
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| Q. |
May I refreeze the
food in the freezer if it thawed or partially
thawed? |
| A. |
Yes, the food may be
safely refrozen if the food still contains ice
crystals or is at 40 °F or below. You will have to
evaluate each item separately. Be sure to discard
any items in either the freezer or the
refrigerator that have come into contact with raw
meat juices. Partial thawing and refreezing may
reduce the quality of some food, but the food will
remain safe to eat. See the attached charts for
specific recommendations.
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| Refrigerator Foods - When to Save and When to Throw It
Out |
| FOOD |
Held above 40 ºF for over 2
hours |
MEAT, POULTRY,
SEAFOOD
Raw or leftover cooked meat,
poultry, fish, or seafood; soy meat substitutes |
Discard |
| Thawing meat
or poultry |
Discard |
| Meat, tuna,
shrimp,chicken, or egg salad |
Discard |
| Gravy,
stuffing, broth |
Discard |
| Lunchmeats,
hot dogs, bacon, sausage, dried beef |
Discard |
| Pizza – with
any topping |
Discard |
| Canned hams
labeled "Keep Refrigerated" |
Discard |
| Canned meats
and fish, opened |
Discard |
CHEESE
Soft Cheeses:
blue/bleu, Roquefort, Brie, Camembert, cottage,
cream, Edam, Monterey Jack, ricotta, mozzarella,
Muenster, Neufchatel, Queso blanco fresco |
Discard |
| Hard
Cheeses: Cheddar, Colby, Swiss, Parmesan,
provolone, Romano |
Safe |
| Processed
Cheeses |
Safe |
| Shredded
Cheeses |
Discard |
| Low-fat
Cheeses |
Discard |
| Grated
Parmesan, Romano, or combination (in can or
jar) |
Safe |
DAIRY
Milk, cream,
sour cream, buttermilk, evaporated milk, yogurt,
eggnog, soy milk |
Discard |
| Butter,
margarine |
Safe |
| Baby
formula, opened |
Discard |
EGGS
Fresh eggs,
hard-cooked in shell, egg dishes, egg products |
Discard |
| Custards and
puddings |
Discard |
| CASSEROLES, SOUPS,
STEWS |
Discard |
FRUITS
Fresh fruits,
cut |
Discard |
| Fruit
juices, opened |
Safe |
| Canned
fruits, opened |
Safe |
| Fresh
fruits, coconut,raisins, dried fruits, candied
fruits, dates |
Safe |
SAUCES, SPREADS,
JAMS
Opened mayonnaise, tartar sauce,
horseradish |
Discard if above 50 °F for over 8
hrs. |
| Peanut
butter |
Safe |
| Jelly,
relish, taco sauce, mustard, catsup, olives,
pickles |
Safe |
| Worcestershire, soy, barbecue, Hoisin
sauces |
Safe |
| Fish sauces
(oyster sauce) |
Discard |
| Opened
vinegar-based dressings |
Safe |
| Opened
creamy-based dressings |
Discard |
| Spaghetti
sauce, opened jar |
Discard |
BREAD, CAKES, COOKIES,PASTA,
GRAINS
Bread, rolls, cakes, muffins,
quick breads, tortillas |
Safe |
| Refrigerator
biscuits,rolls, cookie dough |
Discard |
| Cooked
pasta, rice, potatoes |
Discard |
| Pasta salads
with mayonnaise or vinaigrette |
Discard |
| Fresh
pasta |
Discard |
| Cheesecake |
Discard |
| Breakfast foods
–waffles, pancakes, bagels |
Safe |
PIES,
PASTRY
Pastries, cream filled |
Discard |
| Pies –
custard,cheese filled, or chiffon; quiche |
Discard |
| Pies,
fruit |
Safe |
VEGETABLES
Fresh
mushrooms, herbs, spices |
Safe |
| Greens,
pre-cut, pre-washed, packaged |
Discard |
| Vegetables,
raw |
Safe |
| Vegetables,
cooked; tofu |
Discard |
| Vegetable
juice, opened |
Discard |
| Baked
potatoes |
Discard |
| Commercial
garlic in oil |
Discard |
| Potato
Salad |
Discard | |
| Frozen Foods -When to Save and When To Throw It
Out |
| FOOD |
Still contains ice crystals and
feels as cold as if refrigerated |
Thawed.
Held above 40 ºF for
over 2 hours |
MEAT, POULTRY,
SEAFOOD
Beef, veal, lamb, pork, and
ground meats |
Refreeze |
Discard |
| Poultry and ground
poultry |
Refreeze |
Discard |
| Variety meats
(liver,kidney, heart, chitterlings) |
Refreeze |
Discard |
| Casseroles, stews,
soups |
Refreeze |
Discard |
| Fish, shellfish,
breaded seafood products |
Refreeze.
However, there will be some texture and flavor
loss. |
Discard |
DAIRY
Milk |
Refreeze. May lose some
texture. |
Discard |
| Eggs (out of shell)
and egg products |
Refreeze |
Discard |
| Ice cream, frozen
yogurt |
Discard |
Discard |
| Cheese (soft and
semi-soft) |
Refreeze.
May lose some texture. |
Discard |
| Hard cheeses |
Refreeze |
Refreeze |
| Shredded cheeses |
Refreeze |
Discard |
| Casseroles containing
milk, cream, eggs, soft cheeses |
Refreeze |
Discard |
| Cheesecake |
Refreeze |
Discard |
FRUITS
Juices
|
Refreeze |
Refreeze. Discard if mold, yeasty
smell, or sliminess develops. |
| Home or commercially
packaged |
Refreeze.
Will change texture and flavor. |
Refreeze.
Discard if mold, yeasty smell, or sliminess
develops. |
VEGETABLES
Juices
|
Refreeze |
Discard after held above 40 ºF
for 6 hours. |
| Home or commercially
packaged or blanched |
Refreeze.
May suffer texture and flavor loss. |
Discard
after held above 40 ºF for 6 hours. |
BREADS,
PASTRIES
Breads, rolls, muffins, cakes
(without custard fillings) |
Refreeze |
Refreeze |
| Cakes, pies, pastries
with custard or cheese filling |
Refreeze |
Discard |
| Pie crusts, commercial
and homemade bread dough |
Refreeze.
Some quality loss may occur. |
Refreeze.
Quality loss is considerable. |
OTHER
Casseroles
– pasta, rice based |
Refreeze |
Discard |
| Flour, cornmeal,
nuts |
Refreeze |
Refreeze |
| Breakfast items
–waffles, pancakes, bagels |
Refreeze |
Refreeze |
| Frozen meal, entree,
specialty items (pizza, sausage and biscuit, meat
pie,convenience foods) |
Refreeze |
Discard | |
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