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Chili: detestable food passing itself off as Mexican |
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( The historical information contained here is credited to Linda Stradley, on the website http://whatscookingamerica.net)
Charles Ramsdell, a writer from San Antonio, proclaims that the only thing certain about the origins of chili is that it did not originate in Mexico. "Chili, as we know it in the U.S., cannot be found in Mexico today except in a few spots which cater to tourists. If chili had come from Mexico, it would still be there.” If there is any doubt about what the Mexicans think about chili, the Diccionario de Mejicanismos, published in 1959, defines chili con carne as (roughly translated): “detestable food passing itself off as Mexican, sold in the U.S. from Texas to New York.” There are many legends and stories about where chili originated and it is generally thought, by most historians, that the earliest versions of chili were made by the very poorest people. San Antonians have the strongest claims to be the originators of chili. In 1731, a group of sixteen families (56 persons) arrived from the Canary Islands at Bexar, the villa of San Fernando de Béxar (now know as the city of San Antonio). They had emigrated to Texas from the Spanish Canary Islands by order of King Philip V. of Spain. According to historians, the women made a spicy “Spanish” stew that is similar to chili. Some Spanish priests were said to be wary of the passion inspired by chili peppers, assuming they were aphrodisiacs. A few preached sermons against indulgence in a food which they said was almost as "hot as hell's brimstone" and "Soup of the Devil." The priest's warning probably contributed to the dish's popularity . Records were found, indicating that the first chili mix was concocted around 1850 by Texan adventurers and cowboys as a staple for hard times when traveling to and in the California gold fields and around Texas. Needing hot grub, the trail cooks came up with a sort of stew. They pounded dried beef, fat, pepper, salt, and the chili peppers together. This amounted to "brick chili" or "chili bricks" that could be boiled in pots along the trail. It is said that some trail cooks planted pepper seeds, oregano, and onions in mesquite patches (to protect them from foraging cattle) to use on future trail drives. It is thought that the chili peppers used in the earliest dishes were probably chilipiquíns, which grow wild on bushes in Texas, particularly the southern part of the state. There was another group of Texans known as "Lavanderas," or "Washerwoman," that followed around the 19th-century armies of Texas making a stew of goat meat or venison, wild marjoram and chili peppers. Chili historians are not exactly certain who first "invented" chili powder. It is agreed that the inventors of chili powder deserve a slot in history close to Alfred Nobel (1833-1896), inventor of dynamite. The Fort Worth chili buffs give credit to DeWitt Clinton Pendery. Pendery arrived in Fort Worth, Texas in 1870. It is said that local cowboys jeered his elegant appearance (he was wearing a long frock coat and a tall silk hat) as he stepped onto the dusty street. It is also said that he was initiated into the town by a bullet whipping through his coat. He casually collected his belongings and continued on his way, earning immediate popular respect. By 1890, after his grocery store burned down, he started selling his own unique blend of chilis to cafes, hotels, and citizens under the name of Mexican Chili Supply Company. Pendery's products are still sold today by members of his family. Folks who make chili are as proud and contentious as those who specialize in Barbeque. There is Texas Chili, Indian Chili, Tex-Mex Chili, Arizona Chili, California Chili; there is beef chili, made with chunks of beef, or ground beef, pork chili, ground or chunk, chicken chili, vegetable chili, red chili, white chili, green chili, chili with beans, chili with cheese, and the list go on and on. There are all sorts of stories that come along with making chili. Like it is rarely made with any tomato and uses mostly goat meat and dried chilis. Around here in Tennessee, it seems that chili is made with ground beef , green bell peppers, tomato sauce, and kidney beans – where I grew up, that was called Sloppy Joe – you would be laughed out town if you tried to serve that as chili. Maybe you could get away with calling it hot-dog sauce. In point of fact, if this Chili were presented at a Chili Cookoff, the judge, “given a spoonful, would spit it out all over the referee's foot. He would go into convulsions. He would ram a white handerkerchief down his throat as though he were cleaning a rifle barrel, and in an agonizing whisper he would pronounce himself unable to go on." ( this passage adapted from Gary Cartwright, writer for Sports Illustrated, commenting on the Terlingua Chili Cookoff when judge Dave Witts was given a spoon of chili with beans ) In, the little Texas town where I was born (50 miles from Fort Worth), there are several benchmarks for real chili, or “a bowl of red” as it is known.
Within these guidelines, there is still room for individual character in recipes. There are lots of different types and proportions of chili powders, and spices, onions, peppers, diced tomato, cooking times, and preparation techniques. To be real Texas chili no beans are used If you make chili with beans, they must be pinto beans! (kidney beans or black beans are criminal ) This recipe for chili comes about from growing up with country Tex-Mex folks in rural Texas near Fort Worth. Those memories guided me in remembering how their chili tasted. Then, as a college student, a grad student friend from Texas reminded me how to make it and we formalized the recipe. I’ve been making this Texas style Chili for 30 years, and I know that it is often met with surprise by folks that are not used to it, but it has always been met with approval. "Whenever I meet someone who does not consider chili a favorite dish, then I've usually found someone who has never tasted good chili. Just like a tradition of serving fine caviar with all its garnishments, there is a tradition involving the serving of chili. The appropriate garnishments are sour cream, shredded cheese, diced onion, saltines, crisp corn chips, guacamole and salsa. Personally, I love fresh made yellow corn tortillas, steamy hot, to eat with my chili. Pay attention here, chili oils can irritate skin and sensitive tissue. Skin contact doesn't bother many people, but other's have a skin sensitivity that makes exposure to hot chili amount to second-degree burns! Watch out when handling fresh jalapenos, serranos, bonnet, chilipiquíns, japonnese, or any chilis'. Until you handle them, you don't know if you are one of the sensitive ones! And for goodness sakes don't touch nostrils, eyes, ears, and other stuff after you have handled fresh chilis'. Use lots of soap and water to clense hands - consider using protective gloves when working with chilis'. Chili recipes can be spicy. If you need to lighten up the heat, reduce the amount of chili or chili powder you use in the recipe or replace chili powder with paprika powder, which is a chili that has had the heat bred out of it, but retains chili flavor. You will have to experiment. There are two recipes here, one is quicker and takes advantage of canned products in your grocery store. The second recipe is for the aficionados who want to go to all the trouble to do it from scratch. I have to admit to one big discrepancy- I surrendered to my wife’s cajoling and added beans to this recipe, but don't string me up - I said optional. Chili with BeansServes 6 to 8 3lb. Chuck roast cut into 1” chunk stew meat Pre-heat oven to 250 degrees. Heat oil in a large dutch oven on the stovetop, and sauté the onions, peppers, garlic and chilis until soft. Add canned tomatoes and spices, mix to combine. Stir in meat and bring to a boil. Cover and put in the oven for 2 hours. After the 2 hour simmer, add the canned pinto beans, mix, salt to taste, place in oven for one more hour. Bring back to stovetop on medium, sprinkle masa harina over top of chili and stir in to thicken. It will thicken within 30 seconds, add more or less to your desired consistency. Serve. Chili for Food Aficionados 3lb. Chuck roast cut into 1” chunk stew meat Pick through the dried pinto beans, soak overnight in lightly salted water. Roast the two fresh poblanos over an open fire or burner to char off the skin. Remove skin, core out placenta and dice chili into small dice. Set aside. Peel, seed and dice up fresh tomatoes. Set aside Using half the lard, brown off all the cubed beef- the browner crispier the exterior, the better the flavor imparted to the final dish. Set aside. Pre-heat oven to 250 degrees. Heat remaining lard in a large dutch oven on the stovetop, and sauté the onions, peppers, garlic and chilis until soft. Add diced tomatoes and spices, mix to combine. Stir in meat, beans and beef stock and bring to a boil. Cover and put in the oven for 3 hours. Bring back to stovetop on medium, salt to taste, sprinkle masa harina over top of chili and stir in to thicken. It will thicken within 30 seconds, add more or less to your desired consistency.
A couple of notes – spicy white onions are better for chili than sweet yellow onions, this is one time where Vidalia or Maui onions are not the best to use. Delmonte, Red Gold, and Hunt’s all make a new product called Chili-ready diced tomatoes, it is a great product to use, but lower the amount of chili powder in the recipe. (It is not the diced tomato with green chilis like Ro-tel, it is called Chili-Ready). I know it is not altogether politically correct to say this, but leaving the fat and grissel on the meat, makes for a more flavorful chili. Whichever approach one takes, the point is to get flavorful, well balanced chili: real chili cooks NEVER make ultra-hot chili (at least , not on purpose.) Another hint: chili is somewhat acidic, so serious cooks never use cast-iron pots, which would impart a metalic flavor to the stew. Instead, most use pots with stainless steel or ceramic interiors. Official Rules and Regulations for Cooks at the World's Championship, State, Regional and District Chili Cookoffs states “True chili is defined by the International Chili Society as any kind of meat, or combination of meats, cooked with chili peppers, various other spices, and other ingredients with the exception of items such as beans or spaghetti which are strictly forbidden.” Much of the historical information is credited to Linda Stradley, and the website http://whatscookingamerica.net |
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