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GAYLORD OPRYLAND BRINGS HOME A TASTE OF TUSCANY
Tuscan flavors inspire a transformation
NASHVILLE, Tenn. (February 11, 2005)– You find yourself lounging in a fragrant garden while sipping a glass of this year's best Italian vintage while soft music plays in the background as the first bite of tiramisu melts in your mouth …. Think you are only dreaming? This is not a dream – but it could be paradise! Welcome to Ristorante Volare at Gaylord Opryland. Recently the Gaylord Opryland culinary team traveled to Tuscany to seek out the freshest ingredients and study new and innovative cooking styles from some of the leading Tuscan chefs – all to create tempting, authentic Italian menu items at Ristorante Volare. The menu at Ristorante Volare has undergone quite a transformation as a direct result of the skills and knowledge acquired on the voyage across the sea.
Ristorante Volare has fully embraced the warmth and generosity for which the Tuscan region is famous. Impeccable wine and gracious service complete this world-class restaurant. Interpretations of Tuscan flavors result in mouthwatering selections, including specialty dishes sure to delight even the most discerning palate. As one of the 2004 Wine Spectator Award of Excellence winners, Ristorante Volare offers a vast selection of wines hand selected to create perfect synergy with the menus items offered; ideal for any wine aficionado.
During the month of February, Ristorante Volare will offer extraordinary dishes to highlight Fabbri pastas. While in Tuscany, the Gaylord Opryland chefs discovered a family-run pasta factory tucked away in a small village in the heart of Chianti. Manufacturing pasta the same way for four generations, Fabbri Pasta Factory prides itself on using the best hard-grain semolinas and drying their pasta at a low temperature, thus protecting the pasta’s organic richness and increasing the ability of the pasta to absorb all of the subtle flavors of any sauce.
In addition to the historical pasta the chefs also acquired a very special skill in Tuscany — the ability to create Limoncello, a lemon liqueur that is served well chilled in the summer months. It is wonderful as a palate cleanser or as an after dinner drink. This citrus-based liqueur is so popular in Italy that it is considered the national drink, and this specialty drink is available now at Ristorante Volare at Gaylord Opryland.
Make a reservation at Ristorante Volare by calling 615-871-6848 and take a trip to Tuscany without even packing!
About Gaylord Opryland
Gaylord Opryland Resort & Convention Center – the largest non-gaming hotel facility in the continental U.S. – is known for providing superior products and services to the meetings and convention industry. Winner of numerous prestigious awards including the coveted Gold Key Elite Award in 2002, 2003 & 2004, Gaylord Opryland Nashville is the flagship property of the Gaylord Hotels brand owned by Gaylord Entertainment (NYSE: GET), a leading hospitality and entertainment company based in Nashville, Tenn. For more information, visit www.gaylordentertainment.com or www.gaylordopryland.com.
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Media Relations Contacts:
Kara Norman, (615) 458-2871, knorman@gaylordhotels.com
Jeffrey Zimmer, (615) 458-2873, jzimmer@gaylordhotels.com
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Waiting For the Run
Christopher Kimball
This year, the sap didn’t run. It was the Fault of March – a lost month – lost to cold, mud, ice, snow, and rain. March was like a kitchen full of stale smoke, old meat, and the smell of wet wool pants. We wanted to open the windows and let in the spring, but we couldn’t – the cold, damp air flowed down from the woods, across the slush covered upper pond, and poured into the house like a bucket of half frozen sap, yellow from sitting in the sun too long. We were more than ready for a spray of daffodils, the sight of red buds on apple trees, and the faint hum of honeybees stirring from their white winter hives in the weak mid-day sun. We woke up each morning hoping to find 450 gallons of sap in our tank. And we were ready for it, with a big woodpile of well-split hardwood, plenty of kiln-dried maple for a quick, hot start, and lots of cold beer in the house. Once the arch started up, the intense heat would drive out the chill, the sap bucket gray sky, and the storm threatening from the southeast.
If you spend much time in the country you are used to waiting. Each year we wait for the corn to come up, the pigs to put on weight, the potatoes to mature, the river to go down, the ground to thaw out, the rain to come, the rain to stop, and the weather to clear for haying. Nothing is immediate. Everything is in the process of becoming. One older neighbor received a hat for Christmas. When asked why his significant other didn’t also give him a pair of gloves, he remarked, “Well, I’m going to have to wait ‘til next year. She isn’t sure I am going to last.” No point in spending money on a new pair of gloves if you are not going to get some real use out of them.
A few years ago, when my second daughter, Caroline, had just turned nine, I took her up to New Brunswick for a three day salmon fishing trip on the Miramichi River. It was a three family father/daughter affair organized by my fishing buddy Andy, who had made the same trip three earlier with his oldest daughter, Alexandra. (Andy once gave up a promising career in a prestigious Boston law firm to go fishing in New Zealand for six months. He also showed up stark naked- except for a straw boater – at his ex-wife’s door, having been chased by the police. But that’s another story.) After a 10 hour drive we arrived at the camp, just this side of Doake’s fly shop. There was snow on the ground, it was bitter cold, and the wind was up. The ice had just let out and the fish weren’t running.
Anyone who has ever been to a fishing or hunting camp knows the drill. The week before, the fish are jumping, the deer are plentiful, and the grouse are thick as flies. The night you arrive, the water is too low, the moon is wrong, the deer are scarce – in other words you have arrived in limbo. The signs are always encouraging – nobody wants the sports to go home early – but you have to be patient to see what the next day will bring.
The first day of our trip was bitter cold, but Andy’s daughter, Catharine caught a 20-lb salmon on the second cast. For the rest of us it was hard going. In the first two hours, it hailed, snowed, and then rained. The kids were dropped off at midmorning for hot chocolate and cookies, and the dads made their way back to the river. We went to bed early that night, after a heavy camp dinner, and listened to the hollow sound if iced trees rubbing in the wind.
The second day, Caroline hooked a big one, and the guide asked if she wanted to reel it in. I said sure, it was her trip, but she lost it after a couple of minutes. The day was gray, not much warmer, and we spent seven hours on the river. Caroline was a trooper, cold but determined and cheerful enough about the one that got away.
On the last day, the sun came out, and we were headed upstream to a new spot. As we passed Reed, the other father, he hooked into a good 12 pounder and landed it at the same spot that Caroline had lost hers. Now we were down to about an hour of fishing, and we were the only father/ daughter team that had come up empty.
We headed to a point where the river split, anchored and threw a line into a hold right next to a deep cut bank. Caroline stripped out some line, the wet fly (it was a Silver Rat) was swung downstream by the current, and then the salmon hit. The rod bent almost in half, the line stripped out like a shot, and the reel clicked rapid-fire. It took 15 minutes to land it: it was a small 6-pounder, but it fought well. The guide netted it, and my proud nine-year old held up the bright fish in her arms. I still have the photo to prove it.
During the long ride home, I thought about that fish. It was worth waiting for all right, but other memories of the trip burn more brightly: the warm sun on our face on the last day, three canoes on a fast spring water, each with a guide, a father, and a daughter, the look of encouragement Caroline gave me when she thought I might be disappointed by the poor fishing. At other times, though, after a long wait, the fish never takes the fly. I have sat in the woods many November evenings waiting for a buck and he never showed. I have waited for a 12-year old to kiss me goodbye at the bus stop and she never does. I waited for a friend to come home from the war and he didn’t.
We just have to learn to be patient, to know that our time is spent in transition, in waiting rooms of our imagination. And then one day we wake up and realize that the sap isn’t going to run. There will be no boil, no steam, and no syrup. The fish doesn’t rise to the fly, the woods remain cold and empty, and you never see your friend again. I guess we had better learn to enjoy the waiting..
This editorial is dedicated to David Bloom.
Reprinted with permission from Cook’s Illustrated Magazine |
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The Well-Tempered Wok
By JULIA MOSKIN
When Grace Young's family went to restaurants, her father always insisted
that they sit right next to the swinging door to the kitchen. A liquor salesman
who felt at home in every restaurant in San Francisco's Chinatown, her
father said food had to be eaten just moments out of the wok, while it is still
fresh, hot and exuding wok hay, a Cantonese term, unknown in other parts
of China, that translates loosely as "wok energy" or "wok breath."
Wok hay is what happens when excellent ingredients - like ginger,
noodles, shrimp, walnuts or Chinese chives - meet a wok crackling with heat. It is both a taste and aroma and something else,
too, a lively freshness that prickles your nose and makes you impatient for that first taste, like the smell of steak just off the grill
or a tomato right off the vine in August. Food with wok hay tastes intensely of itself.
"Wok hay makes the difference between a good stir-fry and a great one," said Ms. Young, who traveled to China in 2000 and
2002 to study and document wok cooking and traditions. Her book, "The Breath of a Wok" (Simon & Schuster, 2004), is both
an attempt to define wok hay and a guide to achieving it in an American kitchen. "It's something that you create with a hot wok,"
Ms. Young said, "but it's also something you release that is already in the food."
Today is the first day of the Lunar New Year, a 15-day celebration of renewal, which is the most important holiday of the
Chinese year: Christmas, New Year's Day, Easter and Yom Kippur all bundled together. It is considered the most auspicious time
to buy a new wok or other cooking tools. "The weeks leading up to New Year are our busiest time of the year," said Tanya Leung,
an owner of Hung Chong Cookware in Chinatown in Manhattan. This year, she said, many of her customers are buying a new
product, an iron adapter for American stovetops that makes it possible to use an authentic Chinese wok without raising it too
high above the flames, as wok rings do.
Lang Ching, a New Yorker born in Fujian Province, who was browsing the aisles there last week, said she buys a new wok
every year. "Some cooks in China keep their woks for 30 years," she said. "But I like to try the new ones." Cookware centers
like Hung Chong and Sunrise, on Main Street in Flushing, Queens, carry both the ancient forms of the wok - southern Chinese
cast iron ones with two handles, northern Chinese carbon steel ones with one hollow handle - and popular, more expensive
innovations like nonstick and anodized aluminum woks.
But Ms. Young said that just as Western skillets with those surfaces will never produce the kind of browning that cooks dream
of, the newfangled woks will never produce wok hay, especially on an American stove. On a typical Chinese stove the wok rests
inside the heat source, so that its entire base is bathed in flames. Recreating that embrace of heat through a series of subtle
changes to traditional Chinese methods is, she said, the key to stir-fry success.
Missteps that prevent us from achieving wok hay, Ms. Young said, include crowding too much food into the wok, using
ingredients that are damp instead of dry, and adding the oil before the wok is heated through. But, she said, "the single most
common mistake made in cooking Chinese food on a Western stove is using a wok that is not hot enough."
Residential stoves here produce about 10,000 B.T.U.'s, but restaurant stoves in Hong Kong, where the chefs use compressed
gas to create a more intense heat, can produce as much as 200,000. At that level of heat, and with the intense activity of a
restaurant kitchen, even top-quality woks warp instantly and have to be hammered back into shape after each night's cooking.
While a home wok can last a lifetime, the legendary wok warriors of top Hong Kong restaurants must buy new woks every 7 to
10 days. The best chefs buy their woks from artisans who hammer each one from a single piece of carbon steel, positioning
each strike of the hammer to create a perfectly smooth cooking surface.
Those chefs, Ms. Young said, would be mystified by some of the advice she gives to home cooks in the United States. "The
flat-bottom wok is totally unknown in China" she said. "But it's absolutely the right choice here." She said that even her
grandmother, who immigrated to San Francisco from Hong Kong in 1979, never attempted wok cooking on an American stove.
All of the family's recipes were adapted to skillets, Ms. Young said, but the results were never quite satisfactory. "You end up
chasing the ingredients around," she explained. "Only the wok shape lets you cook on the bottom and the sides of the pan."
Last week at Hung Chong, Ms. Leung's assistant Meng Chaeng helped a customer choose a new cast-iron wok - thinner than
American cast iron and not at all heavy - by gently thumping the sides of several contenders with a gloved finger and listening
to the bell-like tones that echoed in the shop. Mr. Chaeng is the shop's resident expert at listening to woks.
"This is the most beautiful one," he said, pointing to a wok with a chipped edge. "It will give you the most wok hay."
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Fiddleheads: A New England Delicacy
by Marcia Passos Duffy
New Englanders are a frugal bunch. Mention “free” and we’ll come - running.
Free food falls into this category - as in “free for the picking.” When spring comes
to northern New England, the free food abundant in the woods (if you know where to find them) is fiddleheads.
While the best fiddleheads spots are often a guarded secret (akin to Provence, France’s delicacy, truffles) - finding
them is a special treat. These sprouts, in the shape of the top of a fiddle, are actually the young coiled leaves of shoot
of the ostrich fern. While nearly all ferns have “fiddleheads” those of the ostrich fern are unlike any other - they are
delicious!
According to the University of Maine Cooperative Extension, fiddleheads (which appear during April and May) should
be harvested as soon as they appear within an inch or two from the ground. Brush out and remove the brown scales.
Wash and cook the “heads” in a small amount of lightly salted boiling water for ten minutes or steam for 20 minutes.
Serve at once with melted butter. The quicker they are eaten, the more delicate their flavor.
But before you run out to collect these little delicacies, be forewarned that the Center for Disease Control has found
a number of outbreaks of food-borne illness associated with fiddleheads (nothing is simple, right?) But the outbreaks
occurred when the ferns were eaten raw or lightly cooked (as in sautéed, parboiled or micro-waved). So, cook your
fiddlehead thoroughly before eating them... boil them for at least 10 minutes. After than, you can eat them right
away, or freeze or pickle them.
If you’re unsure of what a fiddlehead looks like (make sure you know what an edible fiddlehead looks like because
some ferns can be poisonous) or have no desire to muck through the woods during mud season to pick them, you can
sometimes find them in your produce section if you live in New England or Canada. If you can’t find them, ask your
grocer (if he or she knows what they are!) and fiddleheads can be special ordered.
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FRENCH FOOD MARKETS - GOURMETS’ PARADISE
Article contributed by Hrayr Berberoglu
French love food. The saying “French live to eat and Germans eat to live” is very apt. (And some Irish add to this English eat
to die.)
Walking through a French market is a joy for foodies, and even for others who just eat to survive.
Over there, markets are organized differently. Food vendors are grouped and this makes it easier to sample their wares,
examine quality and compare prices.
Mightiest of all the weird and wonderful species is the humble herring - dry salted, smoked, marinated or grilled. And where
else you find a festival - Fete du hareng - dedicated to a fish?
Then again, French also organize a festival for snails.
The visit the section of charcuterie, patisseries and fromageries is an absolute must.
Although German sausages are better
known all over the world, the French artisans’ handiwork taste as good, if not more exotic than their better-known brethren do.
When it comes to pastries, the French have it. Who can resist a crisp croissant with homemade wild-strawberry jam? And then
there are palmier, Danish pastries, chaussons, just to name a few delicacies.
Cheese, cream cheese in particular, has been the forte of French cheese makers for centuries.
Their fine meadows and cow species yield excellent quality milk, which dedicated cheese makers convert to delicious
Camembert, Brie, Roquefort, St Paulin, Crottin de Chavignol, Mimmolet, Muenster and chevre.
If you happen to visit a market on the Atlantic Coast, you will find many oyster stands where their wares are sold by the dozen,
shucked, ready to slurp with a fine glass of Muscadet de Sevre et Maine sur lie should you be close to the Loire River, but further
south you will be offered an Entre-Deux-Mers from Bordeaux.
Of course, not only are oysters are offered, but also mussels and all kinds of other seafood too.
In Normandy, you are likely to see tripe and all the ingredients go with it; cow stomach, feet, Calvados brandy and cream. If
this fails to appeal, try andouillettes (small chitterling sausages), the ducks of Rouen, and Camembert, Livarot, Pont l’Eveque and
Neufchatel all fine cheeses.
Honey, herb and vegetable vendors will encourage you to sample, sniff, and prod their wares, and will even give you recipes
for free. Just for the asking.
The tiny mustard seeds brought by Roman legionnaires to Gaul to flavour their beef have played and important role in Dijon.
In 1336, the Dukes of Burgundy staged a banquet for King Philippe IV of France when 300 litres of prepared mustard were
consumed. To this day Dijon produces 70 percent of all the French
mustard. You can even visit a museum dedicated to mustard in Dijon
(48 Quai Nicolas Rolin).
The fame of Burgundian gastronomy spread throughout the
world. They invented snails a Bourguignonne, Bouef a la moutarde,
pain d’epice (ginger bread), sauce moutarde, poulet demi-deuille
(chicken in half mourning with black truffle slices), and where else
would you find the finest and pampered chickens of the world but
in Bresse!
People make a detour of many hundred kilometres just to eat
these succulent, superbly tasty chickens!
Of course, everybody knows about the fabled Burgundy wines,
but in a market place, you will find Kir made with Aligote (local dry
white wine) and créme de cassis (black currant). This drink is named
after Felix Kir, who was mayor of the city a long time ago and who
decreed to serve it with white wine only to help growers.
Lyons, a handsome city, is the world’s culinary capital with
restaurants ranging from bistros to the finest, and everything in
between. The best bistros are called bouchon (cork), after the untold
amounts of wine they sell daily to the thirsty locals and thousands of
tourists who just come to enjoy good food and camaraderie.
If you
happen to love mushrooms, any French market will have on display
chanterelles, ceps, girolles, truffles (late November only),
champignons de Paris and much more, but only seasonal produce
is available.
French do not care much about canned food, although
it was Nicolas Apert, an officer in Napoleon’s army, who invented
the art of canning. Today it is an industry in much of the world.
If you happen to be in Sarlat, you can sample pommes sarladaises
- potatoes cooked in goose fat. This is gourmet’s paradise, but it is
not for dieters.
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